Re: Old & New Carantania (journey story)

Posted by: veloträumer

Re: Old & New Carantania (journey story) - 12/19/15 11:08 PM

CHAPTER IV
The poetry of the Prealps of Oberkrain:
Pearls of towns, country and rivers in Jelovica, Skofjelsko Hribovje & Tolminske


Di 30.6. Ukanc – Ribcev Laz – Bohinjska Bistrica – Rovtarica – Raztovka (1122 m) – Drazgose – Podblica – Log – Kranj – Skofia Loka
Ü: H Turizem Loka 30 € mFr (normal 50 €)
AE (Gostilna Kasca): Pilzsuppe, slow. Ravioli m. Kart.füllung u. Gorgonzolasauce, Käsekuchen m. Blaubeeren & Erdbeersauce, Rotwein 23,90 € (****)
81 km | 13,0 km/h | 6:07 h | 1025 Hm

It’s a very remote area, when leaving Bohinjska Bistrica as a local centre. The forestry road via Rovtarica to Drazgose is unpaved, but suitable for randonneurs. You just meet a few cars, maybe some wood trucks. In Drazgose you’ll a partisan memorial, same way Drazgose was destroyed by German fascists. You follow some hills with green meadows until coming down to Kranj. Kranj is well known for the poet France Preseren, the best known poet of Slovenia. He lived there in the last part of his life. One important work of him is the Sonetni Venec. It’s a cyclical poem, which bewitched his great love, called Julia, but never responded his love. The architecture of Kranj town is in the style of k.u.k, Sofia Loka is someway more picturesque with different eras of architecture. Its significance goes back as Bischoflack as a setting of the Bistum Freising in Bavaria, still important for several hundred years. Still remaining symbol from that time is the big monastery building. It’s not easy to find accommodations there, because most tourists leave the town in the evening. I found some good place, but normally much more expensive.

Mi 1.7. Skofia Loka – Gabrovo – Zapreval – Murave – Crni kal (1119 m) – Potok – Davca – Davca slapovi – Zgaga – Petrovo Brdo (803 m) – Podbrdo – Korotnica – Kneza – Podmelec – Slap Sopota (walk, ca. 0,5 h) – Poljubnj
Ü: C wild (H/R Kobala) 0 €
AE (dito): Salat m. Schinken, Pasta m. Tomatensauce, Rotwein 10,50 € (***)
82 km | 10,9 km/h | 7:28 h | 2000 Hm

Next is another remote area, but unpaved parts are still short. The most difficult ones are from Crni kal down to Potok and the road down to Zgaga (but that way an alternative via Porezen is possible). It’s a mix of wood and meadows, most of the climbs are very hard. There is little infrastructure, but some you can find. Even I met a Suisse family, making holidays there. Maybe most exciting is the short canyon before Davca and the waterfall, reachable unpaved by a blind road. You’ll be back on normal roads in Zgaga or Petrovo Brdo, the valley down is accompanied by the railway with some bridges. A short way to Tolmin with some up and downs is possible to find in Kneza. There you’ll find an impressing stone area and a waterfall, not direct at the road. The hotel Kobala had no more small rooms for me (a bigger one to expensive), but they allowed me to place my tent on their ground.

Do 2.7. Poljubnj – Slap Beri (walk, ca. 1 h) – Poljubnj – Tolmin – Zatolmin – Hudicev most/Tolminska korita (walk, ca. 1 h) – Zatolmin – Volarje – Kamno – Vrsno (591 m) – Smast – Kobarid – Stara Selo – Kobarid – Camp Lazar
Ü: C Lazar 10 € (SP wegen später Ankunft)
AE (H/R Topli Val): Tintenfischrisotto, Wildfilet, Knödel & Cannelloni Kobarid-Art, Nussteigtaschen Kobarid-Art, Rotwein, Cafe 41 € (*****)
B: Tolminska Korita 4 €
38 km | 11,3 km/h | 3:15 h | 675 Hm

I used the morning mood for a walk to a waterfall, starting at the border of the village. Next water project was the Tolminska korita, a canyon with very impressing stone walls and blue water between. The place even got famous, because Dante Alighieri had got inspired to his “Divine Comedy”, nearby a cave – but now closed. In the afternoon I climbed to Vrsno, a small mountain village with the Krn Mountain behind. The peak of the Krn had changed during World War I, because it was shot down by artillery. I didn’t ride higher, because thunderstorm war threatening. In Vrsno is the birth house of Simon Gregorcic, another important poet of Slovenia. He has given wonderful words to the nature of his homeland, especially to the Soca. For the finish of the day I tried to get a place in Slovenians best restaurant Hisa Franko in Stara Selo close to Kobarid. But I failed this day, because too much reservations. But Kobarid is a centre of Slovenian cooking, so easy to find a good alternative. The photo gallery closes with pictures from the walk to the waterfall Kozjak, which I had done in the next morning. That walk is strictly recommended, a wonderful place.

Music: Slavko Avsenik, once even a ski jumper, created a new, but commercial folk sound with the Original Oberkrainer. The Slovenian choir Perpetuum Jazzile shows an energetic a cappella version of Avsenik-compositions to reduce the music back to folkloric traditions: Perpetuum Jazzile „Avsenik Medley“ (3:26 min.)

Photo gallery chapter IV (123 photos):



to be continued